I went bouldering again last week. They had changed up one of the walls on the first floor and were in the middle of doing a rework of the grading.
Japan does the Dankyu system which is basically the same type of system you rate Karate with. I learned that I’m climbing at around the 5-kyu at my best right now, which is estimated to be around a 5b in Fontainebleau, or around V2 in Hueco — which isn’t all that impressive, but it’s still enough of an asshole to have a lot of these sideways crimps that I hate:
Trying to pull your entire weight of the floor with a couple fingers is just… well, you know.
Lately i’ve been focusing on learning negative slopes and so far about the best I have managed is the following guy:
Technically speaking it’s a pretty easy climb, but it’s been good practice for me because it takes a lot of strength (but it shouldn’t if I had my technique down better). The first time I huffed my way up this one a little Japanese lady like half my size breezed up it after me without a care, and it wasn’t just because she was lighter; it was because she knew what the hell she was doing.
One good point of the night: I learned how to do simple heel hooks, and I really, really like them. I managed the first one kind of on accident but was amazed with the balance and support it gave me. Can’t complain about adding another trick to my repertoire for sure — anything that helps.